Day 8 - Kep to Takeo - Peppering the hills

Team Itinerary Overview

Kep to Takeo

Cycling distance: Approx 77km
Terrain: Outback dirt tracks,bumpy at times, and smooth paved road
Team Spirit: Exhausted and soaking in every detail of the last few days
Overnight: Takeo

Pepperering the hills

The bungalows and pool at the Kep accommodation were a bit hard to leave but the compensation came in the form of a magnificent 80 kilometre ride from the ocean, through pepper plantations and rice paddies to the town of Takeo.

The day was overcast and made for perfect riding conditions and everyone got through the day unscathed. A near crash between Samantha Smith and Gaylene Howe was the only real incident. The coming together of the two Star News Group workmates was a source of (friendly) argument and great amusement (particularly for Suellen Conway) all day as they both tried to put the blame on each other.

Riders began weaving around the coastal retreat and happened upon a delightful market, famous for its seafood, particularly crab. Everyone loved the prawn rice and couldn’t believe it when one of the vendors had a selection of waffles, sweet bread and the like. Brian Paynter and Brooke Tomlinson were just bemoaning the lack of a good bakery in town.

Olivia Lyon and Gaylene Howe came across souvenirs they just had to have, agreed to buy three between them and, after a wrapping and language mix-up, walked away with five. The concerned vendor soon appeared to protest and the accidental shoplifters happily handed back the extra two.

 

Leaving the ocean behind, the riders headed for the hills. Lush, green surroundings with the odd fruit tree but mostly pepper plantations. Suellen Conway has been talking since we arrived about how famous Cambodia is for its black pepper and was relieved that she had been on the money.

The first break came at one of the pepper plantations, which even came with a well stocked gift shop of the local produce. Meleea Wood must have lost her bearings. She walked in, saw the jars and said ‘Oh, jam!’ much to the amusement of everyone within earshot.

The guides informed us we were also  in the region where Australian backpacker David Wilkinson and a couple of British travelling companions were kidnapped by Khmer Rouge soldiers and held for ransom. An assault amongst the pepper, as it were, with a tragic outcome.

The beautiful surroundings came at a price – hills to climb. Most handled them well, but Cath Zulian actually shined and gathered more pace as we made our way upwards. “I can’t change the gears down, so I just keep going,” she said, earning herself the title of King of the Mountain.

Cath’s greatest concern came on the flat. She and Eva Foster both had chickens randomly run under their bikes. Cath, a strict vegetarian for as long as she can remember and long-time supporter of animal welfare groups, was beside herself that she may have been involved in a bit of unintentional fowl play, but fortunately both scurried off to safety.

The hills certainly enhanced the appetite.

The group has dined at some great places through the journey – on the banks of rivers, overlooking the ocean or even poolside – but everyone’s favourites are the lunchtime roadstops prepared by our guides in someone’s front yard. We all ride in, with permission of course, and make ourselves at home then tuck in to toasted baguettes filled with a selection of fresh salad, boiled eggs, home-made tuna paste, chicken, pork and of course the pre-packaged cheese wedges with a picture of a cow on the front.

 

Again the big day of riding ended in the pouring rain and by the time the 80 kilometres had clicked over our wonderful guides had organised a slab of Angkor beer for the bus to celebrate the achievement. The beer went down particularly well for Alison McHenry, who battled a bit but got by with a little help from her friends. The councillor, Graeme Moore, rode to the point of exhaustion and allowed himself a little nanna nap.

Walking in to the hotel dripping wet, there was a bit of concern at the allocation of rooms that Outlook pair Ross Cheesewright and James Wynne scored a VIP suite (which basically meant marginally more than cat-swinging room). “How did the tip rats get the VIP room!,” Grill’d pair Geoff Bainbridge and Simon Crowe protested. Most concern was that they would sleep in - they have form in that regard – because tomorrow’s last day of riding requires a 6am start. Even breakfast is on the road!

Quote of the day came from Shorty Brooks when filling up her bottle with water and “electrical-lytes” to help get her through. And she wonders why moths find her!

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Garry Howe – Editor Star News Group
Carina Tomietto and Ann Selby – Windermere Adventure Team Leaders